Photos by Eddie B. Horvath
Price, UT


Is There Life Out There
Camera: Yashica 108 Multi Program
Lens: Yashica 70-210mm 1:4 @ 70mm
Flash: N/A
Tripod: Max 2000
Film: Kodac Ultra Color Professional 400UC
Comment: Taken outside using natural sunlight.



First Thaw
{American Coots}

Camera: Yashica 108 Multi Program
Lens: Yashica 70-210mm 1:4; maximum zoom @ 210mm
Flash: Promaster FT1700
Tripod: Not used; Held camera by hand
Film: Kodac Ultra Color Professional 400UC
Comment: Taken inside the vehicle from the passenger side shooting out the
drivers window.

Extra, helpful info for the beginning photographer!

ISO

The ISO setting on your  camera determines how sensitive your camera is to light.  If you are shooting in
a lot of light, use a lower ISO setting.  Use a higher ISO setting if there is not a lot of light. 100 or
200 are the standard settings; set your ISO to 100 on a very bright day or 1600 in a low light situation.
Keep in mind that a high ISO setting sometimes results in grainy or lower quality photos. 



The shutter speed  setting determines how fast  the camera shutter opens and closes  when taking a photo.
Long shutter speeds open the shutter for more time, letting in more exposure and light. 



If you are trying to freeze a moving subject,  like a soccer player, set your shutter speed at 1/250th or
higher. Of course, you can shoot slower if you want some blur for effect. Try shooting at 1/30th and move
the camera with the player.  Sometimes you can get a cool motion effect.  Also, if you have a tripod, you
can use a slower shutter speed.  Bring the tripod to your kid's soccer game to get long exposure shots of
the team playing.  The background will remain in focus but the kids will be blurred.



Aperture/f-stop

The aperture, or f-stop setting, determines how much light is exposed in the shot. Think of it like fill-
ing up a bucket of water from a faucet.  If you open the valve wide,  more water comes out and the bucket
fills up faster.  If you close the  valve to a small opening,  less water comes out and  the bucket takes
longer  to fill.  The  same concept applies  to the aperture/f-stop  setting, but the  key is that  lower
numbers equal more light exposure, which might confuse you at first. F/2.8 opens the aperture up to let a
lot of light in, which is good in low light situations.  F/16 only lets in a little light, and is good on
bright days when there is a lot of natural light.



You can see how all three basic Manual mode components work together. The ISO controls the light sensiti-
vity, the shutter speed determines how fast the shutter is open, and the aperture/f-stop tells the camera
how much light to let in.



Extra Tip: Depth of Field

For the ambitious photographer out there, I have one more Manual mode element to discuss: depth of field.
The depth of field is usually not a setting on your camera,  but you can control the depth of field using
the  aperture/f-stop setting.  Many professional photographers pay close attention  to the depth of field
in their photos.  A short depth of field isolates the subject in the foreground and blurs the background.
You can achieve this  effect with a wide f-stop setting, like F/2.8.  If you want a deep depth of  field,
where both the foreground and background are in focus, try a narrow f-stop setting, like F/16.